When the temperature rises, working dogs feel it differently to pets. A sheepdog, gundog, or HPR breed in active work doesn’t slow down because it’s warm but keeps going because that’s what it’s trained to do. The dog won’t tell you when to stop. You must read it, adjust accordingly, and make the decisions it can’t make for itself.
Summer is conditioning season – introducing young dogs to the job, keeping older dogs fit, refining training, and making sure everything’s in place before the pace picks up in autumn.
The most effective summer adjustment is not how much you work, but when.
Early mornings and late evenings are much safer than midday, particularly on still, humid days. In the UK, the risk isn’t usually a sustained 35°C -although that’s becoming more common – it’s the 22°C humid day after a wet week, when the air is heavy, and dogs overheat faster.
Watch for these signs during and after exercise:
• Excessive panting that continues well after your dog has stopped working
• Slowing down, lagging, or breaking off work unusually early
• Loss of focus or responsiveness especially notable in breeds that normally drive hard
• Gum colour changing from pink to pale / white, or bright red – act on this immediately and contact your vet
If a dog’s panting hasn’t eased within 30 minutes of stopping work and moving into shade, it’s time to call the vet.
Cooling mats and vests are useful during transport and rest periods. They help bring core temperatures down during recovery but don’t replace shade, so are most effective when your dog is already out of direct sun and at rest.
Working dogs dehydrate quickly and often faster than you expect. A dog covering rough ground for a couple of hours in warm conditions can lose a significant proportion of its body weight in fluid and usually performance drops before obvious signs appear.
Practical adjustments:
• Carry water for any session away from the yard.
• Offer small amounts during rest breaks rather than allowing a large drink immediately after heavy exercise (this can cause stomach discomfort in dogs that have been working hard).
• For dogs in sustained work – full beating days, long trial sessions, or extended training – electrolyte supplements added to water or food are good for recovery and reduce the effects of repeated dehydration.
Lost electrolytes – sodium, chloride, potassium – affect both muscle function and recovery. Replacing water without replacing minerals doesn’t address that loss, even when your dog appears to be drinking normally – just like people.
If a working dog is dropping topline, taking longer to recover between sessions, or losing coat quality, then feed is the first thing to check.
Working dog food designed for active animals provides the right protein-to-fat ratio for regular work. Dogs being conditioned through summer often have nutritional needs closer to those in full season work, so feeding should reflect that.
Supplements worth considering:
• Joint support – summer is the right time to start, particularly for dogs working on hard or rough ground. Starting in autumn after the wear has accumulated is too late
• Coat and skin supplements – useful for a dog working through bracken, heather, and rough cover where surface damage accumulates across a season.
• Recovery supplements with amino acids – suited to dogs in repeated, demanding work
Ground conditions change quickly throughout summer. Fields that were soft in spring become hard and abrasive, and repeated work on tracks and dry ground takes its toll.
• Check paws after each session on rough ground. Look at the pads themselves and between the toes, not just obvious cuts
• Pads that feel dry or appear cracked will benefit from a wax-based pad conditioner. Cracks aren’t just a superficial or cosmetic problem – they can allow infection in
• Where possible, include short rest periods on softer ground during longer working days. Even brief breaks on grass make a difference over time.
Small problems found early stay small. Left too long, a pad issue can lead to lameness, cost several days of work, and mean a visit to the vet.
Dogs working in long grass, heather, bracken, and woodland are regularly exposed to ticks throughout summer. Check for ticks after every session, not occasionally.
• Remove ticks with a proper tick remover – not by squeezing, burning, or pulling.
• Keep flea and tick treatment up to date for dogs in regular fieldwork. If you’re not confident the current product is performing, discuss alternatives with your vet
Lungworm (Angiostrongylus vasorum) is easy to miss. Dogs working in typical UK conditions encounter slugs and snails regularly, and the risk is present throughout summer. Signs include coughing, exercise intolerance, and unexplained bleeding or bruising – all symptoms that can be mistaken for other issues. If your dog isn’t on a preventative product, it’s worth a conversation with your vet before the season begins.
Short, focused sessions in the cooler parts of the day are more effective than longer sessions where both dog and handler are managing the conditions rather than the work. Twenty minutes with full attention is worth more than an hour where focus fades in the heat.
Use summer evenings for low-intensity exposure work: new ground, introducing young dogs to livestock or game cover, and reinforcing basic responses without pressure. The longer daylight is helpful.
Check leads, check cords, and slip leads before the season. Replace anything that isn’t in reliable condition now, rather than leaving it to fail when under pressure.
How do I keep a working dog cool during travel?
Good ventilation is key – a well-ventilated dog box reduces heat build-up compared to enclosed spaces. Cooling mats or vests can help on longer journeys. Always provide water before and after travel and never leave a dog in a poorly ventilated vehicle in warm conditions.
When should I call the vet rather than manage at home?
Changes in gum colour alongside heavy panting are an emergency — move the dog somewhere cool and call immediately. Ongoing heavy panting beyond 30 minutes, sudden lameness, collapse, or seizures after exercise should also be treated as veterinary cases.
Do working dogs need electrolytes or just water?
For short sessions, water is usually enough. For longer or repeated work in warm conditions, electrolytes help replace what’s lost and support recovery.
A dog that’s been fed well, kept fit, and managed well through summer enters the season in a better place to one that hasn’t. The difference shows in stamina, recovery speed, and resilience across a full season’s work.
There’s no need to overdo it. Consistent care and the right support through summer will do the job.
If you need to top up supplies or review what your dogs need for the rest of the season, TFM stocks working dog food, joint and recovery supplements, cooling kit, tick treatment, and training accessories – chosen for dogs in active work. Pop into your nearest store or browse our working dog range online.
